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I'll be needing to rip some 8/4 white oak and would like to buy a dedicated
rip blade for my 10" Sawstop 3hp PCS. I'm guessing 24T, 20 degree hook,
FT grind, but I'm really out of my depth here. Would love to hear some recommendations.

The Sawstop people recommend staying away from blades with depth limiting shoulders, so
that might eliminate some blades, esp. Freud.

Forrest is saying things are delayed up to 5 months.

Thanks in advance! (.-.)

Matter of concern-placed an order for machined pulleys last week. Got the order# on the site. But no tracking, no way on the site to check order status. I sent a message through the site with a polite question about a timeline. No response. So I called. There are two numbers listed in the contact information on the bottom of the main page. No answer, no voice mail, nothing. The other #is either disconnected or it is a fast busy.
If it's a small or one man operation I can understand but at least fix it so I can communicate.
Do any of you have enlightenment on this?

edit: uh-oh. https://www.bbb.org/us/ma/webster/pr...111/complaints

Thanks,

Rich (.-.)

Hi,

I see some neat looking laminates out there. I have a potential customer that wants a 10 ft long desk with two L's that are 6 ft long. I first quoted him w/ 1/16" veneer & making my own veneer. It was certainly sticker shock, but I can't use thin veneer because I don't have a press big enough for the entire assembly and it would be too easy to get out of plane and sand thru the thin veneer.

So... he asked if I could use laminates. I started looking on YouTube and it doesn't seem much different than paper backed veneer. I also was searching around it seems there are some neat laminates out there. So getting this job, even if he prefers cheap laminate, could be good for me so that I can learn the process.

Is there actual high quality laminates? Without highly specialized equipment, can you do something like that shown below or do you need to buy from a vendor that specializes in forming laminations? Below is an example of something that I could be fun with my furniture. If you do go w/ a vendor, do you make the piece and have them form the laminate around your product?

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I’m in the process of constructing two cabinets as reliquaries for my father, who passed away in early May. He was a veteran of the Korean War, a recipient of the Bronze Star, and those events shaped and influenced his life. I’ve designed two cabinets, one to hold the flag we received from the military honors at his funeral, the other to house his uniform.

A key aspect of the design is a quarter round moulding that I’ve designed. The moulding will be formed by laminating woods to form 50mm long American flags. See a section of the design below. I designed the flags to be constructed from layers of cherry (red) and maple (white) to form the stripes, with the union to be formed by a block of walnut. I’ve purchased a profile to cut a 20mm radius on the stack of laminates to form the quarter round, and will then cut the flats using the table saw with the blade angled 45 degrees.

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My question is whether the cabinet is going to have wood movements problems in the long run given the dissimilar woods used in the construction of the moulding. The cabinet, and the main field in the moulding, is mahogany, which variety of mahogany I’m unsure of. I suspect it is Honduran mahogany. It isn’t African as far as I can tell. So the moulding would have mahogany, walnut, cherry, and maple — is it going to be a disaster or the crowning piece to accent the cabinet I desire?


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I have a Festool ts75 coming in a week. I’m debating what track to get. I think the 55” or 1400mm is a must. What about for you do 4x8 sheets?

I might be able to get a new 108” (2700mm) track locally for under $300. I was reading that with the TS75 this might have clearance issues which I don’t understand yet.

Maybe two 55” tracks and the TSO connectors are the way to go. Read the TAO connectors are better at securing both track sections.

Would going the Makita route for tracks be a good or bad idea? (.-.)

OK I bought my framing nailer and my finish nailer years ago and they are compressor.

I have watched enough videos lately that I have decided I need a small general purpose 20 volt cordless nailer sitting around. To be honest I see it mostly for incidental use on jigs and such. I don't need it often but not having it when I do is a pain.

Harbor Frieght has an $80 20 volt (tool only) brad nailer that drives 1 1/2" & 2" brad nails and on Amazon I see a combo brad nailer/stapler that does 5/8-1" staples and 5/8"~1-1/4" nails that reasonable and comes with batteries and charger.

Leaning toward the combo but trying to decide if inch and a quarter is a mistake.

Any input from one of you guys that have one of these would be great. Anything you wished you had considered before buying one. (.-.)

A week ago Sunday I had the worlds dumbest tale saw injury.

I was ripping on the slider using a Fritz und Franz jig when my daughters kitten leapt up on the saw, right beside the blade, and it’s tail went up into the guard.

The sliding table was in the full rear position pulled back to start the rip.

Without thinking I grabbed the cat and pulled it away, it was unscathed, my left hand, not so much.

Three injured fingers, one a slight cut, two with partially amputated ends.

How I ever got my fingers in beside the riving knife and blade I have no idea, photo attached.

I saw the surgeon yesterday, no further work required, although soaking the fingers on a daily basis in Epsom salts is a great reminder not to do it again��

In a couple of weeks the stitches OEM out…….Regards, Rod

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A friend stopped by to show me his garage sale purchase. We were both curious what the swivel part that is held by a screw detailed in the second photo was for or held. Saw lots of pictures online but no explanation.34245CB6-1EEC-4E10-B660-585684856C8E.jpgAA97E4B3-0964-43E7-9E67-7C6BAA39E28B.jpg Attached Images

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(.-.)

I need nice brushed nickel closet rods for a job.
The Big Box rods do not fit the client’s requirements.
Any ideas on where to get a “better” looking rod?
Or is there a brand that you can suggest?
Thanks, Mark (.-.)

OK, so the first thing after a push stick when the table saw is all set up is gonna be a lighter, thinner cutting board for my wife, alternating maple and walnut.
So I need to rip the lengths, maybe ~15 in. long, so you know the cuts have to be smooth and tight for the glue up.
For this, should I use a ripping/combination blade or (my thought) a 60 toother I have, just for this job?

Thoughts?

Thanks, Rich (.-.)

Hi all.

I built some hexagonal shelves for my daughter and was looking for suggestions on the best way to hang them. They're all one piece and in the picture shown, they're upside down.

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Tool? I think so, I have some profile molding in my kitchen that I need to sand which my palm sander can't get to. I am thinking about these sanding sponges so that I can get into those cracks and round overs and maybe press hard so that they can fit profile. Well these sponges are little over 3.00 a piece but if they work then its worth it. Any suggest on what sponges and where to buy vs HD or Lowes? Attached Images

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I was at Menards a couple of days ago and looked at their track saw. It was $199. The track came in 4 pieces and got to 110 inches long. Although I have my doubts about that brands accuracy, I can see how it can be used for many different applications.

The other things I have considered is: I have always had a work shop. Not necessarily big, but I never had to share it with a car, where I had to move machines around just to use them. I can see where the track saw can easily come into play in that kind of situation. Although it requires some sort of support, but then every thing requires some sort of support.

I did read all the posts and I tried to keep an open mind. Braking down sheet goods, getting a straight line rip, and getting two edges on a large surface square to each other, was the hardest task for me. It took a lot of thought and trial and error to get where I am now.

Having the table with the pins and holes addresses the problem of perpendicularity, if the holes are accurately located and that would need to be purchased. Now after 50 years of woodworking, I now have the room for a Excalibur sliding table and a Delta contractor saw to address the problem. But one would be amassed as to how useful two table saws are. I could write about and point my finger at how expensive the table with the holes is but I would also have 4 fingers pointing back at me.

I am going to repost a picture of me just having completed cutting sheet goods and if you click twice and blow up the picture you will find the white piece of plastic the saw is mounted on and rides in a track. If one is cutting along the 8 foot line my track can flex out away from me depending on where I am in relation to the cut. The track saw, with the wider track addresses that problem. The real eye opener is I have and use a 20 year old version of a track saw.

So with all that the people on this forum posted about the track saw, I took a different mind set when I looked at the track saw. The quality of the saw I looked at other than deciding I wouldn't buy that brand, didn't inter into the evaluation of it's uses. I now believe is a useful addition to the tool list.

Although I do not believe it will replace the table saw, as some have predicted, the pendulum always swings the other way, I do believe it has a place in the shop. I do not plan on buying one because I do not wish to relearn a different way of doing things. The fast, reliable, repeatable results I get are hard to argue with. And so thanks to the ones on this forum for taking to time to post, I have come 180 degrees from thinking track saws are just an expense fad to actually believing the have a place in the shop.

And here I have been using its' predecessor for twenty years. And so thank you again.

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I bought this PM 66 that had been sitting for about 8 years in a garage. When I got it home I found a silver capacitor 97f9632 25 uf + 8 - 6%. It would not start the saw, it just hummed. I'm looking for capacitor size and whether it takes a start and run capacitor. There are three wires coming from the motor with one going through the centrifugal switch. The saw dates to 1987 (sn 876672038) and it took a bit to free it all up. I replaced the 3 belts as well. While changing the belts I found the motor pulley about 1/2-3/4" off the arbor pulley and had to adjust it lo align the bels. I guess someone had been tinkering with it. I was hoping someone has been down this rabbit hole and may have the info handy. Thanks, Bill (.-.)

Is anyone out there by chance using one of these DROs on their Supermax? I’m trying to install mine and can’t seem to figure out if and how I can install it with the supplied brackets. Hoping I don’t need to drill into the sander or fab up a custom bracket to make it work. The only examples I’m seeing online are for the wixey which has a bracket setup specific for this machine which mine does not. (.-.)

My daughter has twisted my arm to build a kitchen cabinet component that will have a pull out trash/recycycle drawer, a wine rack and a microwave section. She wants all painted expect the wine portion. This has me scratching my head on the design and cutting of the wine section as I assume she will want the diamond shaped wine rack. Anyone with esperience in this type of build? I am in the scratch head portion and will have to build this in a couple of months. (.-.)

Amana sells an after-market 8mm DF500 Domino bit for $28 compared to Festool $48. Anyone have experience with the Amana bits? Are they on par with Festool OEM bits? (.-.)

I'm tossing the idea of getting a small 10" bandsaw.

I had a 14" saw that I bought used. I took the table off to transport it home & 5 years later, when I sold it, the table was still not put back on the saw.

I had pretty much no real reason to use a bandsaw - so - I sold it.

I do have some things coming up I'd like to make - but - nothing that requires anything more than a 9" or 10" saw.

From what I've been able to see so far - there's a ton of 9" saws & they are nearly all just toys.

The 10" Rikon, Jet and Wen saws - seem to be decent machines that are built for doing actual work.

I would normally just get the Rikon and forget about the Wen and Jet - - but - - I just picked up a Wen drill press & I'm pretty impressed with the quality of it - for the money I paid for it. (.-.)

Need a little clarity. I don’t do cabinet hardware stuff enough to know the right answer to this. There are some photos below to go along with all the words.

I’m building a large vinyl record storage cabinet that is going to have 12 drawer boxes on 15” Blum Tandem Blumotion slides. Looking at the specs for the drawer slides (+ the interior dimensions I need for record storage) helped me size the drawer and therefore the cabinet opening side to side. The slide paperwork said to add 1 15/16” overall to the inside dimensions of my drawer box for the outside dimensions of the slides and where they mount on the horizontal plane inside the cabinet. I took that to mean that was also where my vertical divider/partition would be as well as I was under the impression that the slides have screws they hold them both down the the horizontal part of the cabinet as well as screwed into the sides/vertical divider part.

In a mock-up yesterday trying to sort things out, I slide the rear mount bracket on the back of the slide and see that it projects out beyond the outer edges/dimensions of the slide about 3/8” on each side. Did I get the wrong rear bracket? Do I need to use them?

The issue is that the cabinet size and all the divider locations are already sized based on me adding 1 15/16” to the interior drawer box dimensions as per the slide instructions and I don’t have the extra 3/4” (3/8” on each outer side of each slide) in the current cabinet size. The cabinet parts are not cut to final size yet (or assembled) but I don’t have the extra length to add 3/4” to each drawer bay.

If I need them installed, do I need to make a little notch in the rear lower corner of each vertical divider to allow them to have the correct placement? Even then, one may collide with or touch the adjacent one, but that may not be a problem as long as they are just touching and not overlapping.

All material in this part of the cabinet and drawer boxes is 3/4” hardwood veneer plywood.

Attached the rear brackets I have and now I see the spec sheet on it calling out 15/32” of space that is takes up beyond the outer edge of the slide...

Am I missing something or just thinking about this wrong?

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(.-.)

The day has arrived! My SC 2C shipped from Georgia a day early and came into the shipping docks I'm allowed to utilize on Tuesday. DH and I were out of town vacationing while all this was happening. Today we'll go pick it up on the trailer and move it into my shop. :) I'm apprehensive about removing it from the skid, but I usually expect things to be much harder than they turn out to be, so hopefully this will hold true. I'll post pics. (.-.)