Blogs y foros de trabajar madera en ingles

Guys, I'm in need of a small plunge router for doing some inlay work. In the latest Rockler email there is a compact Makita 1 1/4 Hp kit (RT0701CX7) for $149 + $20 gift card. I think I have seen that the Dewalt 611 kit gets favorable reviews by members here. I'm not sure of the comparable weights of the two kits, but I'm 83 y.o. and can't handle larger routers like in years past.

Your thoughts on the pros/cons of the two?

Thanks much,
Jerry (.-.)

I want to purchase SketchUp Pro, but I do not want to connect my computer to the cloud.

The Sketchup website has this graphic for it's Pro model -

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Before I click on "subscribe" can anyone tell me if I will be able to download and use this version without being on the cloud?

I've googled this question a lot but I don't get an answer that I can understand enough to go ahead with.

Any and all advice welcome! Mark Attached Images

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I have not worked with a great deal of mdf. I was looking over Alan’s post on dog hole spacing and the Parf guide and had been thinking that a station for my TS55 track saw would be a good add to the shop. Is all MDF created equal? Is there a preferred spec for a MFT top? I spent about 45 minutes on the Tube yesterday on the Parf guide and one is now on the way to me, so this is happening. (.-.)

Hi,

Plane cut walnut raw veneer and plane cut walnut lumber.. do they color match pretty well without any coloration techniques (chemicals, dyes, etc)?

Designing something on paper right now and trying to decide my method of fabrication.. I will do the veneer route if there's good matching.

cheers, (.-.)

Can anyone tell if they have ever removed the anti-backlash nut from a jessem router Mast-R-Lift table. Mine is stripped and I’m trying to remove it. Called Jessem but they have not returned my calls. Email them and they referred me to a later model Mast-R-Lift. Which was no help it is configured different then my model. Enclosed is a picture of the one I haveIMG_4197.jpg Attached Images

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(.-.)

New poster so go easy on me 🙂

If I have Blum 110 full overlay hinges that I want to change to Blumotion soft close hinges, do I need to change them all or can I do 1/2 on a door, 2/3 on a large door?

Is there any reason not to do this?

Thx (.-.)

What brand and model number of pocket door hardware do you like for cabinets?
The doors will be 18" wide x 20" tall.

Anything pitfalls or bad practices I should look out for?

thanks, Mark (.-.)

I have got a very small concrete landing area (about 4ft x 4ft) which needs to covered by subfloor so laminated floor can be installed.

Can I just use some leftover loctite pl300 to glue a piece of plywood to the concrete or I have to use some more specific glue for this purpose? Thanks

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Please help. We need a replacement conveyor motor for Performax ShopPro 25 Drum sander

Jet says it's obsolete in their system. Not sure where to turn


The part number in the manual is 71-1301
The motor is a Dayton 8HK98

SPECS

Volts: 90 DC Amps: 3.42
Ratio 98:1 HP: 1/30 Input Motor
RPM: 32 Torque: 43 LnLb (.-.)

Two years ago we had a large elm tree taken down from our backyard (which was an adventure in itself - small urban backyard, had lots of cooperation from the neighbors). I had the brilliant idea of having it cut into lumber and located a local sawyer with a kiln. Ended up with enough live edge slabs and planks to fill a 10'x15' storage unit. I managed to sell most of the live edge slabs and broke even on the costs of sawing and drying. Saved three live edge slabs to make a desk for myself and coffee tables for my kids.

I now have a stack of planks in the garage, 5"-6" wide, 8'-14' long, total of about 200 board feet. I need to move the planks to make enough room to park one car in a two-car garage this winter

I'm thinking of making some semi-rustic furniture, such as small bookcases and benches. Before I start cutting, a couple of pertinent questions:

• Has anyone here worked with elm? I have read that elm is not the most stable wood, and is best suited for small projects. I'm thinking of cutting the planks into 4" lengths. Although it pains me to cut up a 14' plank, the longer length is probably not of any value
• My favorite way to join the edges of boards is to cut channels on a router table and use splines. I'm thinking this might not be the best idea for a less stable wood, and perhaps I should just plane and join the edges with no glue and expect some movement.

Any insights are much appreciated. (.-.)

My TS 55 has stopped collecting sawdust. It's throwing dust all over. The saw is hooked to a shop vac and there's plenty of suction from the hose, but there's almost no air movement by the blade. I took the blade cover off and there's no blockage anywhere. And when I turned on the shop vac with the cover still off it sucked in some residual dust. But put the cover back on and nothing.

The only thing that has changed is that I put a rip blade on. Haven't had the chance to switch blades back to see if it makes any difference but I don't see how the blade can make a difference.

Any guesses?

Thanks
Cliff (.-.)

Looking for suggestions on how to plane 1/4 veneer to face end grain on some legs for a project. I was thinking of using a previously planned board and after I joint one face and cut the veneer use double sided tape to stick it to this board and then run it through on the cut side. Thanks. Brian (.-.)

I built a dead flat table years ago with a 4 x 8 replaceable top. I've been using masonite, but now one side of the masonite is rough and not very practical to use. I was thinking of buy some formica and using this. Biggest problem is glue from glue ups and I thought this would make the top last longer.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Brian (.-.)

I recently purchased a couple DeWalt 20v tools that feature a DeWalt proprietary dust port design and, in the course of figuring out how to connect them to my dust extractor, hit upon a solution to a different issue frustrating me: how to connect the current generation of Festool vac hose end--also a proprietary design--to anything non-Festool. I share the info here in the hope it helps others facing either challenge.

DeWalt makes a part, DWV9000, that they somewhat confusingly label a "universal adapater" for their proprietary dust port design. Its intended purpose is that the user cut off and discard whatever connector end is on their existing spiral type dust extractor hose and permanently thread on this adapter in its place, thereby transforming the hose and whatever vac it's connected to into a system able to couple to DeWalt's proprietary ports. No doubt it fills that function perfectly, but that's not what's relevant here. What I discovered is that the hose on my Festool CT-26 is a just-about-perfect friction fit into the hose end of of the DWV9000 adapter, no modification or surgery necessary. No undue force is necessary nor do the thread systems on each one engage yet it's quite secure due to closely matching diameters and the adapter being rigid plastic and the hose end somewhat flexible. In this configuration, the Festool vac can couple to DeWalt tools with the proprietary DeWalt dust ports, which solves my first problem. But equally important and perhaps of wider interest is that with the DWV9000 adapter installed, the Festool vac hose is able to couple up to a whole universe of other non-Festool tools and accessories, new or old--solving my second issue. This is because DeWalt makes a slew of adapters that connect its proprietary dust collector hose end, or the DWV9000 adapter installed on a non-DeWalt hose, to all sorts of other dust ports and accessories regardless of brand or era, including especially the 35 mm tapered and non-tapered dust ports widely found on many tools and accessories like the older router and sander and the ubiquitous vac detail tool and brush shown in my pics. DeWalt part nos. DWV9130 and DWV9150 are especially useful in this regard; DWV9120, which happens to be somewhat akin to the old style Festool end, also works but is less secure in these applications. (Kudos, DeWalt, and boo, Festool, for recognizing or not that your customers want your products to work with stuff they have or prefer, even if not yours.)IMG_3880.jpgIMG_3882.jpgIMG_3884.jpgIMG_3883.jpg Attached Images

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Now that work will be flexible forever, im giving a lot of consideration to replacing the Target/Ikea desks in our spare bedroom. I think they are the only store-bought pieces left in the house. One way or the other, i think im going to move forward with the project. The question is, do people enjoy standing part of the day? Do you notice an appreciable difference in your wellbeing? Ive read the articles and results seem to be a little mixed. I think there are benefits to not sitting for a full 8+ hours a day, which has me considering it. Now, for the actual transition of work surface heights, has anyone seen a product that can be built around/hidden? I dont want to buy a Varidesk convertor and slap it on top of my beautiful walnut top. I could also make the desktop a split top and physically move my monitors to each platform for the times i am sitting or standing. Ive searched Etsy and other sites and have not seen anything stand out thus far. A lot of electric raise/lower desk bases with a live edge top screwed on top. (.-.)

So I added an air conditioner to my shop not too long ago and would like to step up the insulation in the walls and ceilings. Currently I have 40+ year old fiberglass that is in rough shape. Would love to have spray foam but it’s just not in my budget. With that said, where is the best place to get 48” or even 60” wide fiberglass bats? Manatee has something like 65ft for $270 or so which seems high to me with it being only 65ft of it. I live in the hot and humid south. I have searched online and not many places advertise their prices on their websites. I really don’t want to have to send out a dozen emails for pricing. With that said, do you guys have a suggestion or two on the best places to check with and what should I expect to pay for 3” thick x 48” wide x 100ft long rolls? What about 6” thick rolls? (.-.)

I have a small workspace and so I attempt to put everything on wheels. In an attempt to make better use of my, low to the ground, wood storage space, I decided to build a rolling wood rack. Hardwood would be stored on the front, and sheet goods on the back. I can wheel it out from the wall when needed.

A few specs before I get to my question.

Its build of 2x6 pine and 4x4 fir. The pine is the body and the cedar is the bracing.
Each leg and post is 3x2x6 with an actual dimension of 5x4.5 or so. I used lag replacement screws for tensioning the frame. I used SPAX screws to reinforce. The frame joints are assembled with 4 4x28x140 mm dominos. The uprights are assembled with 2 of the same dominos along with a 6" lag replacement bold through the back side to the base frame to support the dominos. The front bracing is also assembled with a combination of lag replacement screws and SPAX #8's in various lengths.

The arms of the storage rack are 13 ply Russian birch 3/4" with 2x6 pine blocking. The pine blocking is also against and screwed into the the uprights for additional support. They are mounted to the upright with 8x1.5" SPAX #8's.

I have somewhere between 500 and 700bf of white oak on it.

My concern is, now that I have it assembled and the wood loaded on, is how strong those arms are going to be. I put the highest weight closest to the upright. Looking at it, I can see a cascade collapse happening etc. Thus far, it seems rock solid, i see no flexing of the shelves or anything else. Incidentally, it rolls easily too.

My thought is, I'll give it about a week to settle with all the weight and see if anything sags, or if it collapses or cracks. With that much wood and weight, it would be hard to see surviving it falling on you.

Thanks for any opinions! Attached Images

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(.-.)

Hello all. Just sold my delta 50-760 dust collector and looking for replacement.
I have a small workshop, half of 2 car garage. Nothing major, table saw, dewalt planer and 10" bandsaw.

I came across an importer that basically gets the parts from china and assembles them into functioning units.
Specs are:
"3HP" 220v 12.5a motor
1 micron filter
30 gallon drum
Price is decent and its fairly compact and quite unit. Has automatic filter cleaning and sound dampening

Attached is the picture.

My other options I was looking at was Oneida mini gorilla, Laguna Pflux/cflux1 or Harvey G700 (found used one for sale, still negotiating on the price)
IMG_5579.jpg

any thoughts?

Thank you

Alex Attached Images

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One company has dominated headlines this week: Facebook. First its systems went down and then a former product manager, Frances Haugen, testified in Congress at a Senate hearing on consumer protection. Haugen highlighted problems at Facebook and called for greater regulatory oversight. “The severity of this crisis demands that we break out of previous regulatory frames.”

It didn’t attract as much media attention but the next day, four thousand miles away, in the Swiss town of Basel, financial regulators met to discuss how their own regulatory frames might be applied to Facebook and other big tech companies.

Facebook isn’t a financial company, at least not yet. Back in 2019, Mark Zuckerberg articulated grand plans to become one via a cryptocurrency called Libra. “What we’re trying to do with Libra,” he told lawmakers, “[is] rethink what a modern infrastructure for the financial system would be if you started it today rather than fifty years ago on a lot of outdated systems.”

We talked abo…

Read more

If you feel like you’ve seen this movie before, you’re not wrong.

The big question is this – is debt now irrelevant?

It might sound crazy to think about, but in a world of near-zero interest rates, does debt really matter anymore?

Right now, down in Washington D.C., politicians are squabbling over the debt ceiling:

Should The Debt Ceiling Rise, or Not?

If there’s no agreement, theoretically the U.S. government could run out of money by the end of the month.

It would lead to immediate credit downgrades and missed payments by the U.S. government…

Can you imagine the carnage?

Below is a chart showing this projection.

Will it happen? Not a chance.

Really though, all this talk about the debt ceiling is just posturing.

We all know it’s going to go up.

Because let’s be real – there are 2 things politicians love: spending money they don’t have (debt) and spending taxpayer dollars (your money).

Most of Washington couldn’t hold a candle to the Wall Street Fixed Income departments when it comes to managing debt finance, but that’s beside the point.

The debt ceiling in the U.S. and around the world will continue to trudge higher.

And why not?

• At today’s ultra-low interest rates, the cost of funding said debt is near all-time lows.

The chart below shows the relationship between the Federal Funds interest rate, the budget deficit to GDP, and net interest payments relative to GDP.

As you can see, the substantial decline in interest rates outweighs the extra debt taken on to stimulate the economy:

• Budget deficits are going up, but the cost of funding that deficit is going down.

Get Stimulated

You would think that having enormous amounts of cheap capital in the system would create a highly stimulative economic environment.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so let’s look at a chart on this idea.

The chart shows current and future net interest payments as a share of GDP.

• It’s forecast that over the next 5 years that net interest payments, as a share of GDP, will be some of the lowest on record.

Lowest on record. And from a politician’s standpoint, that means more room for debt.

As GDP recovers and trudges higher post-coronavirus, interest payments remain low thanks to ultra-low rates.

This allows the government increased financial flexibility and spending power if they so choose (and they will). Big, but Cheap.

However, both you and I know that there’s no such thing as a free lunch.

Eventually, the chickens will come home to roost.

Debt to GDP is One to Watch…

As you see in the previous chart, by 2030 interest payments are forecast to be back at 3% of GDP, That’s the same level as it was in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s.

A central bank buys bonds from the government to inject capital into the system. And when the economy begins to overheat it sells bonds to pull money out of the system.

In September, the U.S. Federal Reserve outlined its plans for tapering its bond purchases.

This means the Fed will begin to slowly rein in the amount of capital it’s injecting into the system.

This type of policy is still considered highly accommodative, but the world we now live in is used to extreme amounts of financial heroine (I call it Financially Transmitted Diseases).

It’s not just the U.S. that has such accommodative policies in place either…

Europe, Japan, Canada, Australia, and of course China are all running highly expansionary policies.

These accommodative policies are fanning the flames of a global economy that’s rapidly transitioning away from under-capacity to overheating.

Commodities Heating Up… and Crossflation

Last week we showed you how natural gas and coal prices are skyrocketing. Ditto for uranium recently.

Real-time data analysis using commodity prices or food inflation paints a far more drastic inflation picture.

After all, commodities are the backbone of everything we build and consume on a daily basis:

I don’t know how often Jerome Powell or Janet Yellen go grocery shopping themselves, but if they do, they’ll notice that prices have gone up.

A lot.

It’s simple math that if the prices of inputs go up, some or all of that cost is going to eventually get passed on to the consumer.

Here’s a chart of the IMF’s World Food Price Index. As you can see, post-pandemic, the index is up 40%.

These high input costs, which translate directly to higher food prices, are now impacting the consumer’s bottom line.

The following chart shows the price of chicken in the United States, up 20% since the pandemic:

A true story: I asked my local butcher why they didn’t have any beef tenderloin the other day.

His response?

“We stopped carrying it because it’s so expensive that no one is buying it.”

In my book The Rise of America: Remaking the World Order, I wrote about “Crossflation.”

It’s a term I coined to describe how some parts of the economy would see inflationary pressures while others would see deflation.

Technology continues to play a deflationary role, while input costs such as oil drive up the price of all commodities which is inflationary.

The global capital markets are at an incredible inflection point.

• I’ve just sent a note to my KRO subscribers this week on how to get in on the largest investment opportunity I’ve ever come across.

This isn’t some rinky-dink dice roll exploration play on a metal you’ve never heard of…

This is the biggest, most de-risked wealth changing opportunity I’ve seen in my career.

There are tens of trillions of dollars being invested into this sector, but right now it’s still flying under most investors’ radars.

If you want a shot at financial freedom…

And the ability to protect yourself and your loved ones no matter where food prices, or other basic commodity prices, end up…

Consider a subscription to my premium research service (the KRO) to learn more.

Regards,

Marin

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