sawmillcreek.org Main woodworking Forum

Guys, I'm in need of a small plunge router for doing some inlay work. In the latest Rockler email there is a compact Makita 1 1/4 Hp kit (RT0701CX7) for $149 + $20 gift card. I think I have seen that the Dewalt 611 kit gets favorable reviews by members here. I'm not sure of the comparable weights of the two kits, but I'm 83 y.o. and can't handle larger routers like in years past.

Your thoughts on the pros/cons of the two?

Thanks much,
Jerry (.-.)

I want to purchase SketchUp Pro, but I do not want to connect my computer to the cloud.

The Sketchup website has this graphic for it's Pro model -

Screen Shot 2021-10-14 at 8.46.52 AM.png

Before I click on "subscribe" can anyone tell me if I will be able to download and use this version without being on the cloud?

I've googled this question a lot but I don't get an answer that I can understand enough to go ahead with.

Any and all advice welcome! Mark Attached Images

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I have not worked with a great deal of mdf. I was looking over Alan’s post on dog hole spacing and the Parf guide and had been thinking that a station for my TS55 track saw would be a good add to the shop. Is all MDF created equal? Is there a preferred spec for a MFT top? I spent about 45 minutes on the Tube yesterday on the Parf guide and one is now on the way to me, so this is happening. (.-.)

Hi,

Plane cut walnut raw veneer and plane cut walnut lumber.. do they color match pretty well without any coloration techniques (chemicals, dyes, etc)?

Designing something on paper right now and trying to decide my method of fabrication.. I will do the veneer route if there's good matching.

cheers, (.-.)

Can anyone tell if they have ever removed the anti-backlash nut from a jessem router Mast-R-Lift table. Mine is stripped and I’m trying to remove it. Called Jessem but they have not returned my calls. Email them and they referred me to a later model Mast-R-Lift. Which was no help it is configured different then my model. Enclosed is a picture of the one I haveIMG_4197.jpg Attached Images

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New poster so go easy on me 🙂

If I have Blum 110 full overlay hinges that I want to change to Blumotion soft close hinges, do I need to change them all or can I do 1/2 on a door, 2/3 on a large door?

Is there any reason not to do this?

Thx (.-.)

What brand and model number of pocket door hardware do you like for cabinets?
The doors will be 18" wide x 20" tall.

Anything pitfalls or bad practices I should look out for?

thanks, Mark (.-.)

I have got a very small concrete landing area (about 4ft x 4ft) which needs to covered by subfloor so laminated floor can be installed.

Can I just use some leftover loctite pl300 to glue a piece of plywood to the concrete or I have to use some more specific glue for this purpose? Thanks

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Please help. We need a replacement conveyor motor for Performax ShopPro 25 Drum sander

Jet says it's obsolete in their system. Not sure where to turn


The part number in the manual is 71-1301
The motor is a Dayton 8HK98

SPECS

Volts: 90 DC Amps: 3.42
Ratio 98:1 HP: 1/30 Input Motor
RPM: 32 Torque: 43 LnLb (.-.)

Two years ago we had a large elm tree taken down from our backyard (which was an adventure in itself - small urban backyard, had lots of cooperation from the neighbors). I had the brilliant idea of having it cut into lumber and located a local sawyer with a kiln. Ended up with enough live edge slabs and planks to fill a 10'x15' storage unit. I managed to sell most of the live edge slabs and broke even on the costs of sawing and drying. Saved three live edge slabs to make a desk for myself and coffee tables for my kids.

I now have a stack of planks in the garage, 5"-6" wide, 8'-14' long, total of about 200 board feet. I need to move the planks to make enough room to park one car in a two-car garage this winter

I'm thinking of making some semi-rustic furniture, such as small bookcases and benches. Before I start cutting, a couple of pertinent questions:

• Has anyone here worked with elm? I have read that elm is not the most stable wood, and is best suited for small projects. I'm thinking of cutting the planks into 4" lengths. Although it pains me to cut up a 14' plank, the longer length is probably not of any value
• My favorite way to join the edges of boards is to cut channels on a router table and use splines. I'm thinking this might not be the best idea for a less stable wood, and perhaps I should just plane and join the edges with no glue and expect some movement.

Any insights are much appreciated. (.-.)

My TS 55 has stopped collecting sawdust. It's throwing dust all over. The saw is hooked to a shop vac and there's plenty of suction from the hose, but there's almost no air movement by the blade. I took the blade cover off and there's no blockage anywhere. And when I turned on the shop vac with the cover still off it sucked in some residual dust. But put the cover back on and nothing.

The only thing that has changed is that I put a rip blade on. Haven't had the chance to switch blades back to see if it makes any difference but I don't see how the blade can make a difference.

Any guesses?

Thanks
Cliff (.-.)

Looking for suggestions on how to plane 1/4 veneer to face end grain on some legs for a project. I was thinking of using a previously planned board and after I joint one face and cut the veneer use double sided tape to stick it to this board and then run it through on the cut side. Thanks. Brian (.-.)

I built a dead flat table years ago with a 4 x 8 replaceable top. I've been using masonite, but now one side of the masonite is rough and not very practical to use. I was thinking of buy some formica and using this. Biggest problem is glue from glue ups and I thought this would make the top last longer.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Brian (.-.)

I recently purchased a couple DeWalt 20v tools that feature a DeWalt proprietary dust port design and, in the course of figuring out how to connect them to my dust extractor, hit upon a solution to a different issue frustrating me: how to connect the current generation of Festool vac hose end--also a proprietary design--to anything non-Festool. I share the info here in the hope it helps others facing either challenge.

DeWalt makes a part, DWV9000, that they somewhat confusingly label a "universal adapater" for their proprietary dust port design. Its intended purpose is that the user cut off and discard whatever connector end is on their existing spiral type dust extractor hose and permanently thread on this adapter in its place, thereby transforming the hose and whatever vac it's connected to into a system able to couple to DeWalt's proprietary ports. No doubt it fills that function perfectly, but that's not what's relevant here. What I discovered is that the hose on my Festool CT-26 is a just-about-perfect friction fit into the hose end of of the DWV9000 adapter, no modification or surgery necessary. No undue force is necessary nor do the thread systems on each one engage yet it's quite secure due to closely matching diameters and the adapter being rigid plastic and the hose end somewhat flexible. In this configuration, the Festool vac can couple to DeWalt tools with the proprietary DeWalt dust ports, which solves my first problem. But equally important and perhaps of wider interest is that with the DWV9000 adapter installed, the Festool vac hose is able to couple up to a whole universe of other non-Festool tools and accessories, new or old--solving my second issue. This is because DeWalt makes a slew of adapters that connect its proprietary dust collector hose end, or the DWV9000 adapter installed on a non-DeWalt hose, to all sorts of other dust ports and accessories regardless of brand or era, including especially the 35 mm tapered and non-tapered dust ports widely found on many tools and accessories like the older router and sander and the ubiquitous vac detail tool and brush shown in my pics. DeWalt part nos. DWV9130 and DWV9150 are especially useful in this regard; DWV9120, which happens to be somewhat akin to the old style Festool end, also works but is less secure in these applications. (Kudos, DeWalt, and boo, Festool, for recognizing or not that your customers want your products to work with stuff they have or prefer, even if not yours.)IMG_3880.jpgIMG_3882.jpgIMG_3884.jpgIMG_3883.jpg Attached Images

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Now that work will be flexible forever, im giving a lot of consideration to replacing the Target/Ikea desks in our spare bedroom. I think they are the only store-bought pieces left in the house. One way or the other, i think im going to move forward with the project. The question is, do people enjoy standing part of the day? Do you notice an appreciable difference in your wellbeing? Ive read the articles and results seem to be a little mixed. I think there are benefits to not sitting for a full 8+ hours a day, which has me considering it. Now, for the actual transition of work surface heights, has anyone seen a product that can be built around/hidden? I dont want to buy a Varidesk convertor and slap it on top of my beautiful walnut top. I could also make the desktop a split top and physically move my monitors to each platform for the times i am sitting or standing. Ive searched Etsy and other sites and have not seen anything stand out thus far. A lot of electric raise/lower desk bases with a live edge top screwed on top. (.-.)

Just got this ancient Grizzly 16" band saw for fairly cheap with the idea I need to replace just about everything to get it up to speed again. Right now I'm trying to get the wobble out of the machine (seen when running) and the first thing I'm gonna replace are the 2 drive belts. I've heard about a new (to me) type of replacement belt that is supposed to turn more smoothly and is adjustable with links in it. Not sure what they're called but would they be an appropriate replacement part for this saw?

Attachment 463081

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Attachment 463083 (.-.)

This is a nice stand but I can't get it to collapse. Hoping someone might have an insight on why it won't. I pull the handle, slightly lift, but it just stays put. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/WST05

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I'm suspecting it has something to do with the red piece under the stand.

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Maybe it's becuse of these two threaded bolts I ended up with after assembly?

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I have the opportunity to buy this for $300. It includes what is shown in the pictures. Most of my sharpening would be wood lathe related. Can someone tell me what the jigs in the last picture are for?

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In my hubris, I thought I had thought of everything and was really feeling myself. So I left this project in the vacuum bag over night for the last pressing in a multistep veneering process. My last thought out the door was, maybe I should hang out and keep an eye on this thing. It was the final step in a month long project, after all. Nah, it'll be alright. Well, something malfunctioned and the vacuum climbed a bit too high. Attached Images

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I’m looking at putting together a second router table. My first table was put together using a Milwaukee motor that came with a switch and variable speed control. Its been a great unit but I can’t find one for sale anywhere. I also can’t find any router table switch that includes a variable control. Either just the switch, or just the variablespeed control that won’t work with a slow start router. Whats the preffered approach these days? (.-.)